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Kind: captions Language: en [Music] you're watching a Nova Video [Music] podcast in the summer of 1915 The Wailing ship Herman set out from San Francisco sailing North to Alaska the crew hunted in harpoon boohead whales but they also found time for sightseeing at gnome they visited a sled dog railroad at Port Clarence an Eskimo summer fishing [Music] camp then the ship stopped at the Tiny Village of gamble on St Lawrence a small island in the northern reaches of the cold Bearing Sea the place was a time capsule the upic people lived as they had for [Music] centuries it was as if the culture was frozen in time and in time it would begin to [Music] melt the global climate is changing the world is warming the areas nearest the poles are the first places to show the effects the Bearing Sea is getting warm and rising sea ice is receding permafrost on land is melting species are moving and some are disappearing there are two groups of people who have a particular interest in these changes the residents of St Lawrence island in the northern Bearing Sea and the scientists who visit the region every year aboard the Coast Guard Cutter [Music] Healey the he is really a science machine this ship can carry up to 45 scientists at a time and all those people will be working simultaneously to collect as much information as we can during a cruise we have people studying everything from from whales to to Wares to ERS I'm more of looking at the worms and the clams in the bottom I'm interested in how the variability of sea ice both over space and over time impacts the spring Bloom of algae walruses walus walus boohead whales copper pots and kill the chemical flow of carbon nitrogen other materials on this trip I really need to figure out what lives in the sea ice you know it's our first sampling ever doing that kind of work and and so I'm I'm I have some ideas I have some thoughts and hypothesis but what I might see but I'm not sure whether that is true or not so at the end of these two weeks 3 week period I I hope that I can can say okay that is the kind of biology we see in the SE I in the Bearing Sea the Bearing Sea ice is matched against steel all 420 ft of the Healey is covered in Steel 2 in thick this newest and largest polar Icebreaker in the Coast Guard Fleet can cruise at three knots through ice 5 ft thick if the ice is even thicker the heing becomes a battering ram backing up and then crashing ahead through ice Fields as thick as 8 ft repeating the maneuver over and over again it's a demolition derby in the name of science [Music] the boats that have carried the upic people on the Bearing Sea are somewhat older models they're wrapped not with steel but with walrus hide cured and stretched it becomes the watertight skin that has covered the boats of St Lawrence Island for centuries I prefer these skin boats they're much more reliable than these aluminum boats when you're on aluminum boat it makes too many noise especially on the young ice about 2 in to 3 in thick gear your game away when they when they put these together they use a senu from uh whales Inu muscles and they do the pretty much same thing like whale Waller skin they stretch that senu they put a weight on it tie one end to the ceiling and put a weight on the bottom kind of stretch it the Bearing Sea is more than a familiar Waterway to the upix it is their tap rout their common and ancient Heritage but for most Americans it's a distant and exotic place a vast oval of water between the bearing straight and the Illusions the Bearing Sea touches two continents joins two great oceans spans hemispheres it's huge one one and a half times the size of Alaska and wondrous the sea is a rich broth of Life home to 26 species of marine mammals including 12 kinds of whales and over 450 species of crustations and fish some 20 million seabirds breed in the Bearing Sea the area has most of the world's polar bears most of the world's Northern fur seals and the highest concentration of Pacific walrus on Earth it's a zoo up there and in this Northern Zoo the key element is ice there are many words uh to describe various ice conditions here uh uh generally you say C ice right now the ice that we're on is called duvak that's the term we use for sh fast ice and this uh little piece of ice the one with the flat passing ice is called is a cake of ice go is a it's it's a ice that comes in from the North Pole sash sash is the youngest ICE 2 in of snow inch just forming real thin ice they used to them days they used to let the dogs out first check the ice see if it's good to walk on if the dogs don't go in the thin ice that means ready to go out hunting St Lawrence island is a vestage of the land bridge that once connected Asia to North America on a clear day you can see Siberia from the Island's western shore about 1500 people live here most of them of Siberian ancestry but the island is part of Alaska and its people are US citizens before the 20th century almost everything they used came from their immediate environment their food clothing boats sleds even their houses there were underground houses we call them NLOS and we use a whale bone to stick them up out like that put some Tundra on top of it and they're real good they're warm too and there's some walers hide inside and some seal skin and all kinds of hides in there sea loyal lamp you know to heat up the house too the natives of Alaska say that the sea is our garden we live off uh the ocean we get this sea mammals wallers whales seals uh birds and uh most of our activities revolve around harvesting a game like that throughout the whole year preparation of our skin boats even in the summer you know for next year's use and uh it's kind of a cycle that was uh consistent all the time and uh and very predictable and that's when things were normal what we've been seeing in the last 10 to 15 years is a decline and the ice coming down from the north last year we had the highest Retreat on satellite records in 2007 and so the question is what's going to happen this year right now we have high the Isis down far south but it's very thin so with this ship it'll be like butter to go through uh we don't have any multi-year ice down south S Lawrence Island so we'll we'll move pretty quickly e e
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